Inspired by idyllic childhood holidays on Coniston Water, Swallows and Amazons turned Arthur Ransome into a national treasure, but a decade earlier, he’d been branded a political pariah for his radical bulletins from Bolshevik Russia. A friend of Lenin and Trotsky, and a secret agent for British Intelligence, could Ransome’s revolutionary experiences underpin his classic story? I head for Coniston to find out…

In the early hush of this Torver Sunday, a song thrush grubs in the grass of the verge. I escape the road through a kissing gate where a fingerpost points the one-and-a-half miles to Coniston Water.

Buttercup and red clover line the path. Dog roses entwine hazel, and white lace doilies of elder blossom grace the leafy canopy. Silver light promises brightening skies, and as I look northwest to the fells, The Old Man of Coniston is a drab olive shadow, emerging from soft grey cloud like teased wool. 

Foxgloves stand like sentries before the whitewashed walls of Hoathwaite farmhouse. From here on, the way runs through campsites, abuzz with the sound of excited awakenings. Sausages sizzle on camping stoves, cooking smells entwine with coffee and canvas. Adults perch contentedly on camping stools, quietly absorbing the ambience, while children run around vigorously role-playing pirates or explorers or whatever scenarios their lakeside holiday has fired in their imaginations, their iPads and phones for now abandoned.

Through the trees is a crystal shimmer. I cross the lattice of gnarly roots that line this stretch of the Cumbria Way like the veins of a limb, and stand on Torver jetty, gazing out on the dark, inscrutable waters, gilded with sunlight and ridged with ripples like intricate engravings on a tray of antique silver.

Coniston Water is a dividing line between two very different landscapes, defined by the bedrock on which they rest. Writing in 1949, Cumbrian writer and poet, Norman Nicholson describes this contrast vividly:

“As you get out of the train, you find yourself on a vaulted platform, with a large round arch at the terminus end. Through the arch, looking so near that you feel you must be staring through binoculars, are the Yewdale Crags, along the flanks of Wetherlam. These are vicious crags, not very high, but fanged like a tiger, with slaverings of scree and bright green whiskers of larch and rowan. You walk forward and the arch widens and you see farther up Yewdale, with Raven Crag at its throat, and the road winding beneath Tom Heights on the way to Ambleside. All this is volcanic. Then you step through the arch, and Coniston village is below you, a row of villas and a neat wire fence leading to the lake. And beyond the lake, the wavy, unemphatic moors of Silurian rock behind Brantwood. The lake itself is of a dull, drab green, like the paint on the railings of Sunday-schools, and it looks uncomfortably damp—the lakes of the Silurian country always look damp. Down the lake you see a quiet pastoral country, greener and more hospitable than the Brantwood fells, full of dimples and hollows, and little misty trees and farms. Wooden railings step out into the water like children hand-in-hand, paddling. Nevertheless, the Brantwood shore, which looks so dull from this side of the lake, is full of woods and ferns and birds and little sykes with golden saxifrage among the stones.” .

(Cumberland and Westmorland, 1949)

That the two sides of the lake should differ so dramatically feels almost portentous; they echo the two sides in the public perception of another writer, one for whom the lake would become a muse.

“It had its beginning long, long ago when, as children, my brother, my sisters and I spent most of our holidays on a farm at the south end of Coniston. We played in or on the lake or on the hills above it, finding friends in the farmers and shepherds and charcoal-burners whose smoke rose from the coppice woods along the shore. We adored the place. Coming to it we used to run down to the lake, dip our hands in and wish, as if we had just seen the new moon.

Going away from it we were half drowned in tears. While away from it, as children and as grown-ups, we dreamt about it. No matter where I was, wandering about the world, I used at night to look for the North Star and, in my mind’s eye, could see the beloved skyline of great hills beneath it. Swallows and Amazons grew out of those old memories. I could not help writing it. It almost wrote itself.” 

So wrote Arthur Ransome in 1958 of the novel that would turn him into a national treasure.

Published in 1930, Swallows and Amazons’ reception marked a remarkable turnaround in Ransome’s public standing; just a decade earlier, the Establishment had been keen to paint him as a political pariah.

“Mr. Ransome is a partisan. He backed the Bolsheviks from the very first and is concerned, under the guise of impartiality which he does not possess, to defend them through thick and thin.”

Thus argued a reviewer in Justice, appraising Ransome’s 1919 work, “Six Weeks in Russia”. Justice was the journal of the Social Democratic Federation, which would become the British Socialist Party. Right-wingers were less generous. Colonel Alfred Knox, The British Military attaché, declared that Ransome should be “shot like a dog” for his Bolshevik praising articles. 

Ransome was living in St Petersburg (then Petrograd) at the time of the Russian Revolution, and he wrote a series of articles for the Daily News praising Lenin and Trotsky and condemning the British government for backing the White Russian counter-revolutionaries. For a British Establishment who, in 1918, were forced to concede the vote to women and to working class men, and who were threatened by the rise of left wing politics, Ransome’s articles were a thorn in the side. But how Ransome came to be in Russia in the first place, and perhaps even his romantic fervour for revolution, may have owed much to his relationship with his father, and, as Paul Eastham argues in Huge and Mighty Forms, perhaps even to a particular incident here on Coniston Water.

Eastham writes,

“As a young boy, Arthur Ransome learned a harsh lesson about bourgeois English life. While on a family holiday at High Nibthwaite on Coniston Water his father Cyril threw him into the lake to find out if he would naturally sink or swim. Arthur sank like a stone and refused all further aquatic instruction from his well-meaning but acerbic father who accused him of being an unteachable, effeminate ‘muff’. Appalled by a dreadful threat that he would not be allowed out in boats in future, the boy saved up his pocket money and taught himself the backstroke at Leeds Public Baths near the family home in three visits. When Arthur announced this achievement over breakfast, Cyril told Arthur not to tell lies and dragged him grimly to the baths to prove the truth. Arthur never truly forgave the aspersion cast on his honesty. His father’s despotism instilled in him a lifelong suspicion of authority and an even greater horror of rejection.”

His distrust of authority almost certainly deepened at school. Teachers at Old College Prep School in Windermere failed to recognise that Ransome was myopic and needed glasses. Instead, they thought him academically slow and labelled him a coward for failing to defend himself at boxing. While he gained a scholarship to Rugby School, he distinguished himself by gaining the lowest ever pass mark. Shortly afterwards, his father died of complications following a night-fishing accident. Young Arthur would be denied the opportunity to ever live up to his father’s expectations.

Ransome became a writer, moving to London where he embraced the fashionably anti-establishment attitudes of the Bohemian movement and married Ivy Walker. The union was ill-judged. Walker was a genuine rebel who loved to shock. Ransome was a sentimentalist, who deep-down craved acceptance. Ivy’s lewdness and tantrums appalled him, and despite the birth of their daughter, Tabitha, their relationship soon became strained.

As an aspiring author, Ransome’s break came when he was commissioned to write a biography of Oscar Wilde. Despite his publisher’s plea for discretion, Ransome included a salacious and questionable assertion that Lord Alfred Douglas had tempted Wilde away from the straight and narrow following his prosecution for homosexuality. Published in 1912, the book was a success, but Lord Douglas, who had since adopted Catholicism and renounced Wilde as “the greatest force for evil that has appeared in Europe during the last three hundred and fifty years”, was incensed and sued Ransome for libel. Wilde’s first lover, Robbie Ross came to Arthur’s aid, providing a crack team of lawyers who won the case on a technicality, bankrupting Douglas in the process. Ivy turned up every day in court to revel in the notoriety, but victory sat uneasily with Arthur, who ordered the offending passages to be expunged from future editions of the book, and soon afterwards, fled to St Petersburg to study Russian folklore, abandoning his wife and daughter.

In 1915, Ransome published Old Peter’s Russian Tales, an anthology of 21 Russian fairy stories. With the onset of WWI a year earlier, however, Ransome found himself ideally placed to become a Russian correspondent to British newspapers, particularly the radical Daily News.

The war took a huge toll on the Russian army, and by 1917, soldiers had begun to mutiny. Following the widespread unrest known as the February Revolution, Tsar Nicholas II was persuaded to abdicate. The monarchy was abolished and replaced with a Provisional Government, which represented the capitalists, but a rival institution known as the Petrograd Soviet, or workers’ council was formed to represent soldiers and workers. Ransome correctly anticipated that this was not the end of the story. In Sept 1917, he reported:

“Extremism has been spreading fast and it had seemed as if the whole broad base of the Council of Workmen’s and Soldiers’ Delegates were slipping to the Left; while its Executive Committee clings to its moderate position and risks loss of support from below… Agreement between the Government and the Petrograd Council is impossible.”

What Ransome didn’t anticipate was how quickly events would unfold, and he found himself marooned in England on a short visit when the Bolsheviks seized power in October. He needed to get back to Russia swiftly, but now Russia was a country difficult to enter. Fortunately, Ransome’s passage was smoothed by a senior diplomat whose children were big fans of Old Peter’s Russian Tales. On arrival, a further bit of serendipity fell in Ransome’s favour. The new Head of Security had chosen that moment to personally supervise the checking of bags, and it was he who opened Ransome’s. He was amused and intrigued to find it contained a book on fly-fishing, a book of Russian folklore, and the complete works of Shakespeare. He demanded to meet the bag’s owner and the two became friends, providing Ransome with introductions to the Bolshevik inner circle.

Arthur moved into an apartment with Karl Radek, became Lenin’s chess partner, and obliged Trotsky in his new role as a military commander by scouring bookshops for works on military tactics. He also embarked on an affair with Trotsky’s 23-year-old secretary, Evgenia Shelepina.

As a sentimentalist, Ransome was inspired by the idealism of revolution and enthusiastically embraced the notion that the people were shaking off centuries of tyranny. On hearing an inspiring speech by Trotsky in 1918, he wrote:

“I would willingly give the rest of my life if it could be divided into minutes and given to men in England and France so that those of little faith who say the Russian revolution is discredited, should share for one minute that wonderful experience”.

While many in the British establishment bristled at Ransome’s apparent Bolshevism, others saw the utility in having a man on the inside, especially when official diplomatic ties had been severed. Foreign Secretary, Arthur Balfour asked MI6 to recruit Ransome as an agent to act as a conduit to the Bolshevik leaders. Ransome obliged and was given the code name, S76, although his involvement remained an official secret until 1991. British Intelligence Found Ransome something of an anathema. His whimsical and emotional response to events led to some head-scratching and the worry that he might be acting as a double agent, although this suspicion was later discounted.

Indeed, Bruce Lockhart, the British agent accused by Russia of plotting to assassinate Lenin, would later write in his memoirs: “Ransome was a Don Quixote with a walrus moustache, a sentimentalist who could always be relied upon to champion the underdog, and a visionary whose imagination had been fired by the revolution. He was on excellent terms with the Bolsheviks and frequently brought us information of the greatest value.”

Ransome’s romantic take on the Revolution blindsided him to its brutal realities. In his attempt to paint the Bolsheviks as visionaries rather than butchers, he initially defended the formation of Cheka, the secret police, the suppression of free speech, and even execution without trial as political necessities in the face of western-backed aggression. However, as the body count began to grow, disbelief must have morphed into disillusion and distrust, and in 1919 Ransome was persuaded to leave, taking Evgenia with him.

Ransome’s great nephew, Hugh Lupton told the Daily Mirror,

“Their escape was like one of the Russian folk tales Uncle Arthur loved, fleeing from the city, sleeping in burnt-out barns, dodging death. He rescued the woman he loved.”

Hugh also revealed that Evgenia did not leave empty handed:

“Possibly unbeknown to Ransome, she smuggled out one million roubles’ worth of diamonds in her undergarments to sell to Bolshevik sympathisers in the West! They had probably been confiscated from the aristocracy.”

Arthur and Evgenia settled first in Estonia, where they married after Arthur secured a divorce from Ivy in 1924. In 1925, spurred perhaps by homesickness for those beloved Lakeland landscapes, Ransome brought his new bride to England, and the couple settled at Low Ludderburn, on Cartmel Fell above Windermere.

Ransome was concerned that his reputation might see him blackballed from the yachting club. By now he would fiercely deny that he had ever been a Bolshevik, claiming that you may as well call a botanist a beetle, because he writes about them. When British Special Branch chief, Basil Thompson demanded Ransome explain what his politics were. He replied, “fishing”.

During this time, Arthur struck up an enduring friendship with the Altounyans, an Anglo-Armenian family who lived in Syria but often visited the Lakes. Their mother, Dora, was the daughter of his old friend and mentor, W. G. Collingwood, and their children, Taqui, Susan, Mavis (nicknamed Titty) and Roger would provide the inspiration for key characters in Swallows and Amazons.

To many, Swallows and Amazons is a delightful tale of imaginative children on a Lakeland adventure, free from shackles of parental supervision. It enshrines typically British values of fairness, decency, and self-reliance. The children’s playground is a small island, a stone’s throw from the shore and in sight of the farmhouse where their mother is staying, but in their imaginations, they are by turns explorers and pirates, inhabiting a desert island in the middle of a mighty shark-infested sea.

Some now see the novel as dated, a story of privileged children with a colonial mindset. They see themselves as great white adventurers and imagine the locals to be “natives”, but this reading misses the point. The children are merely repeating the language of Robinson Crusoe and Treasure Island. The “natives” include their own mother, and in truth, are code for grown-ups. Jim Turner, the Amazons’ uncle, we learn can be the best of pirates (when he is disposed to indulge his nieces by joining in their adventures), but this year he has gone native, that is to say, he is acting like an adult, too preoccupied with writing a book to give them any time.

It was the pursuit of a writing career that took Ransome away from his own daughter, Tabitha. In 1928 Arthur attempted to reestablish contact but Tabitha shunned him. The character of Turner is often assumed to be Ransome himself, and it is hard not to read this as a veiled apology. Of course, in the novel Turner sees the error of his ways, resumes his persona of Captain Flint, and walks the plank as punishment for his neglect.

According to Paul Eastham’s reading, the symbolism runs deeper. Flint does not only walk the plank for neglecting his nieces, but for the slurs he makes against their friends the Walker children (the Swallows), who he wrongly accuses of planting a firework on the roof of his houseboat and of stealing his manuscript. Ironically John, the eldest of the Walkers and captain of The Swallow, tries to pass on a message from some kindly local charcoal burners, warning Turner that he risks being targeted by thieves. But Turner refuses to listen, and when the burglary occurs, he blames John. In light of Turner’s accusations, suspicion of the children spreads among the locals. Eastham sees John as representing Ransome’s self-image, unfairly accused of something he is didn’t do.

Whether Arthur actually advocated Bolshevism is a matter for debate. In his own mind, he was writing honest accounts of events and providing some degree of balance to an English press largely predisposed to spin against Lenin. Just as in boyhood, his integrity was besmirched and he was spurned by the Establishment.

By the end of Swallows and Amazons, John’s innocence is proven, Turner is profusely apologetic, and the Swallows help recover the stolen manuscript. To my mind, Eastham is right on the nail. The book is more than just an adventure story, it is a personal catharsis, a symbolic attempt to set the record straight. The plot ends with an injustice righted and the rehabilitation of the Walker children as heroes rather than villains. This may have been wish-fulfilment on Ransome’s part, but thanks to the story, it became a reality. The huge popularity the book brought Arthur the acceptance he had always craved.

A swallow, breast of wheatfield yellow and wings of royal blue, soars skyward against the chimneys of Coniston Old Hall. A small flotilla of moored yachts bob lazily on the rippling waters by the Sailing Club. The Yewdale fells rear above the Methodist chapel, with all the feral savagery of Nicholson’s description. Foxglove, bracken, and flowering bramble line the steep bank of Church Beck, which crashes and hisses down the rocky cascades of the ravine. I head up to Crowberry How and take the steep path up the Old Man, past a wall of quarried slate and the wild tranquility of Low Water. When I reach the summit, the lake stretches languidly below.

Throughout his time in Russia, Ransome kept this landscape close. Lupton told The Mirror:

“All the time he carried a pebble in his pocket from Peel Island, in Coniston Water in the Lake District, the inspiration for Wild Cat Island in Swallows and Amazons, like a talisman, a lucky charm.”

Arthur once described walking the streets of Moscow as the same “wonderful experience” as “walking on Wetherlam or Dow Crag, with the future of mankind spreading before one like the foothills of the Lake Country, and the blue sea out to the west.” His romantic fervour for revolution may have palled, but his passion for Lakeland never would.  

Sources / Further Reading

Paul Eastham’s Huge and Mighty Forms is a fascinating book exploring why Cumbria has produced so many influential characters. Arthur Ransome rubs shoulders with everyone from William Wordsworth to Fletcher Christian, Lady Anne Clifford and Queen Cartimandua.

Available from Fletcher Christian Books:

https://www.fletcherchristianbooks.com/

Roland Chambers’ article, “Whose Side Was He On?” in the 10th March, 2005 edition of The Guardian is an interesting read:

https://amp.theguardian.com/world/2005/mar/10/russia.books

Likewise, Jon Henley’s “I Spy Arthur Ransome” article in the 13th August, 2009 edition:

https://amp.theguardian.com/books/2009/aug/13/arthur-ransome-double-agent

You can find Hugh Lupton’s interview with the Daily Mirror, about his Uncle Arthur, here:

https://www.mirror.co.uk/tv/tv-news/swallows-amazons-writer-double-agent-8730764.amp

Additional information in my article came from an excellent exhibition, called From Coniston to the Kremlin: Arthur Ransome‘s Russian Adventures. It was curated by The Arthur Ransome Trust (ART) and hosted at the Ruskin museum in Coniston in 2016. ART has republished several of Ransome’s books, including his autobiography and Old Peter’s Russian Tales, which are available from their online shop.

https://arthur-ransome-trust.org.uk/

As part of its permanent exhibition, the Ruskin museum has the sailing dinghy, Mavis—the inspiration for the fictional Amazon—and a Ransome cabinet of curiosities:

https://ruskinmuseum.com/who-was-arthur-ransome/

Paul Flint and Geraint Lewis from the Arthur Ransome Trust featured in a recent podcast from the always excellent Countrystride team, which you can find here:

https://www.countrystride.co.uk/single-post/countrystride-79-arthur-ransome-life-loves-literature

Norman Nicholson’s Cumberland and Westmorland, 1949 is a beautifully written study of the two counties. It is out of print, but second hand copies are relatively easy to find on line.

The British Newspaper Archive has many of Ransome’s articles from his time in Russia. The 1918 book review in Justice also came from there.